If someone mentioned Bilbao 30 years ago, the reaction might have drawn a blank stare or "Bill who?" But since the arrival and huge success of the Guggenheim Museum Bilbao, the mere mention of the city will elicit strong reactions and lots of animated discussion about architect Frank Gehry's magnificent piece of sculpture, the museum's mostly contemporary art collection and its winsome riverside setting. While the museum is extraordinary, there is much more to Bilbao than this single draw. The city, Spain's fifth-largest, will delight visitors with its charming Old Quarter, lively restaurants and tapas bars, excellent shopping, and the outstanding architecture that dominates the modern city center.